Robert Parker 90-91+
Still in barrel when I last tasted it, the Prieur 2007 Corton-Charlemagne – grown in an eastern exposure just below woods, and too steep to work by tractor – represents the harvest’s last picking. Formidably dense and palpably chalky, its combination of citrus and pit fruits with their pips and pits is relatively austere for the vintage, and the sense of enveloping new wood around this makes for a decidedly bitter-sweet personality. Like the other Prieur 2007s, this boasts creaminess of texture, but there is a certain youthful, woody, as well as mineral-starched stiffness to the finish for now. Sheer concentration, power, and penetration lead one to anticipate a wine that will be worth following for at least 8-10 years. The 2004, by the way, is currently sassy, yet dense, saline, and just beginning to show some intriguing secondary (including carnal and fungal) features. It is a truly great wine in the making that has me imagining white Burgundy as a crossing between Riesling and Pinot Noir!
Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019